Nice to Avignon

I figured I better do this now since I only have 28 days left and might not get another chance. Lets see if I can remember what Ive done in the past several weeks...

Ok, first, I got pleasantly stuck in Nice for quite some time. It is a great town, not too big and not to small, with loads of beaches and climbing areas. My time there was a blur of rock climbing, good food and great people. But I didn't just stay in Nice. I borrowed a backpack and took off into The Alps for 4 days with a good friend of mine. We spent our days hiking through the mountains and then camping wherever we found ourselves at dinnertime. It was quite a change of pace from biking, and I have to say I prefer it when my loyal steed is carrying the weight, and not me. Food is heavy.

Aside from some inclement weather (read: strong wind, hail, cold and wet) the trek was spectacular. The mountains remind me of the high alpine in BC, except that whenever you turn a corner you have to navigate through a group of 20 other hikers that have driven up for the day. Cheaters. On our last night in the mountains we had a rather scary and unusual experience. We both woke up to the pounding of hooves outside the tent. Nothing unusual - there are loads of little deer-like creatures called Chamois in them thar hills. I went back to sleep. But was woken again by something banging up against the tent (right by my head) followed by what sounded a good deal like a dog sniffing. Dogs aren't allowed in this area. All of a sudden there was a loud noise at the front of our tent and I realized that something was trying to make off with our bag of food! I hissed and it stopped for a second, but then it started again, louder and more aggressive. Something was definitely trying to rob us of our provisions. Not realizing I could sound so big and mean, I bellowed at our unwelcome guest, my voice echoing off the steep mountainsides all around us. The attempted robbery stopped as quickly as it started and our assailant disappeared without a sound.

It could only have been a wolf. They are rare in The Alps, and I guess we should count ourselves lucky to have been so close to one, but it didn't really feel that way. It took a long time for my heart to slow down enough to go back to sleep. The next morning, one of our boots was missing. Apparently our nocturnal visitor had found the smell of the hiker good enough to eat and had decided to make off with it. Luckily I found the shoe several metres from the tent, because it would've been hard to hike out of the mountains without footwear. Later in the week we would discover that it had been a full moon that night. Not only that, but it was a full eclipse of the full moon. No wonder the wolf was feeling so feisty! Unless it was a werewolf, in which case the theft of fine footwear would start to make a lot more sense!

We hitched a ride all the way into Cannes with the very first car we showed our thumbs to, and spent the afternoon in the film-crazy town before returning to the much more relaxed city of Nice. Several more days of relaxation and good company followed before I again loaded up my bike and, with heavy heart, headed west. I spent the next 4 days riding towards the city of Apt, where I had another place to stay. I was following small inland roads and the heat was nearly unbearable. Going downhill or on the flat ground is ok because the wind of my movement keeps me cool, but going uphill is torture. It gets up to almost 40 degrees and there I am pushing a combined weight of about 150 kg (me+gear+bike) up 11 percent slopes in the hottest part of the day. Whenever it gets to the point where I am about to throw up or pass out I stop in the shade and drink loads of water, also pouring some over my head. Luckily the route I had planned took me past many lakes, so I could occasionally stop and swim.

I have developed an uncanny ability to create routes that take me past the most incredible places. Well, either that or everywhere in southern France is incredible. On the second day out I came to the Verdon Canyon, sold loosely as the grand Canyon of France. I had never been told about this place, I just saw some interesting looking features on my map and decided to go by there, since it was kind of on my way. I was happy I did. It was fantastic and the views were worth every vertical metre it took for me to get there. The valley is extremely steep and high, but narrow, with a silty blue river twisting along its bottom. I made sure to take the scenic route through the canyon, even though it added several hours and many steep roads to my trip. Yet another place to climb. Next time I'm bringing my shoes and a rope, damn the extra weight.

I kept on meandering through the French countryside, sticking to back roads and small villages. Eventually I arrived in Apt: my destination. Well, nearly. Not far from the city is the old farm house belonging to Will and Bea Rae-Smith, who are relatives of my high school friend Dave. Dave and I haven't seen each other in years but, when he saw on the net that I was in France, he gave me their details and I contacted them. Even though they had family visiting, they were happy to host me in their beautiful house in the hills, built before Canada was discovered. As the house was full of relatives, I got to sleep in the treefort, which I haven't done since I was 7 or so. It was fantastic! I stayed on for several days, taking it very easy and getting to know this wonderful family from England. I helped Will in the back yard, made pancakes for everyone, went for a bike ride around the hills, and even accompanied the family on a river walk through a fantastic canyon. And when I say river walk I actually mean walking in a river. Its a great way to keep cool!

However, as my time was running short I had to leave. Packing up my bike once again I headed in the direction of the setting sun, all the way to Avignon, where I am currently couchsurfing. Tomorrow I will change direction and head north, following the Rhone River to Lyon. My date of homeward departure is on the horizon, and fills me with both excitement and apprehension. My adventure is coming to an end, a chapter of challenge and discovery coming to a close. I don't know what I will find upon my return. Have I really changed? Have you? Time will tell, and I am happy to wait. After all, I still have several hundred km to cover. A lot can happen with that much road ahead.

I will see you all soon. Big French love to all of you until then!

Devo